Exploring the North Cascades: The Guide I Wish I Had Before My First Visit

The North Cascades, often referred to as the "American Alps," are a majestic range of mountains offering breathtaking scenery, diverse wildlife, and endless outdoor activities. I have lived in the area of the North Cascades for more than 20 years and I finally made my way for a visit after years of hearing just how special they are. I also have a theory about why it is the least visited National Park in the United States! If you are a seasoned hiker, a nature enthusiast or just someone looking for a peaceful retreat and some beautiful views, the North Cascades has something for everyone. This is the guide that I wish I had had while planning our long overdue visit, including how to get there, the best times to visit, forest fire precautions, and some of the must-see spots and activities in the area.

Exploring the North Cascades: The Guide I Wish I Had Before My First Visit

One of the reasons I haven't visited the North Cascades yet, though I've had many of the areas on my "must see" list, has been that it's a three hour drive from the Seattle area. It seems too long for a day trip if you really want to get a good feel for the area. It's also decently remote. Most people camp, and we are not campers. Lodging is limited and has to be reserved early. It's a fairly wide-spread area too, so it's hard to know where to situate yourself to make the most of your time. I'll unpack all of this for you!

Getting to the North Cascades from Seattle

Primary Route via Highway 20

The North Cascades can be accessed primarily via Highway 20, also known as the North Cascades Highway. Here’s a step-by-step guide from Seattle:

1. Start on I-5 North: Begin your journey by heading north on Interstate 5.
2. Take Exit 230: In Burlington, take exit 230 and follow signs for Highway 20 East.
3. Continue on Highway 20: This scenic highway will take you directly into the heart of the North Cascades.

The morning before we left, a friend sent a text informing us that Highway 20 had been closed due to a wildfire. There were no detours and no alternative routes listed. We were glad we had that information because otherwise, we would have headed that direction, only to need to make a full loop around instead {an 11+ hour day of driving we wouldn't have been anticipating!} if we wanted to make it to the area. 

Highway 20 is known as the North Cascades Highway {or even the Cascades Loop} and it does loop around, but will add some time to your trip. The 3 1/2 hour drive we anticipated, turned out to be about 5 hours, but we were able to take this alternative route.

Alternate Route Through Chelan

If you’re coming from Eastern Washington or if Highway 20 is closed due to forest fires, you can access the North Cascades through Chelan. 

1. Start on I-90 E over Snoqualmie Pass
2. Follow I-90 E to WA 970: Take exit 85 from I-90E
3. Follow WA 970 to Us-97 N
4. Head Towards Highway 20: Head west towards Twisp, Withrop and Mazama

Best Times to Visit the North Cascades

The best time to visit the North Cascades largely depends on what you’re looking to do:

• Spring (April to June): This is a great time for wildflower enthusiasts and those looking to experience the park before the summer crowds.
• Summer (July to September): Ideal for hiking, camping, and most outdoor activities. However, this is also peak season, so expect more visitors. Also expect forest fires and possible closures.
• Fall (October): This is the prime time for viewing the golden larches. The cooler weather and vibrant fall colors make it a perfect season for hiking.
• Winter (November to March): Winter sports enthusiasts can enjoy activities like snowshoeing and skiing, but be prepared for colder temperatures and possible road closures.

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Forest Fire Precautions

Forest fires are a natural part of the North Cascades and you'll see evidence of them all over the area, even if it is just dead burnt trees along a path. It could also be closed trails and roads in an effort to suppress the fires. They can pose a risk to visitors. Here are some precautions to take:

• Check for Updates: Before your trip, check for any fire alerts or road closures on the Washington State Department of Transportation website.
• Stay Informed: Follow local news and weather updates. The National Park Service and U.S. Forest Service also provide updates on their websites and social media. Many of the local businesses also had alerts and updates posted.
• Pack a Fire Safety Kit: Include items like a flashlight, extra batteries, a map, a first-aid kit, and enough food and water to last at least 72 hours.
• Avoid Fire-Prone Areas: If there are active fires in the area, avoid those regions and follow all posted warnings and instructions from park officials.

Don't miss this: 10 National Parks to Visit During Wildflower Season

Highlights of the North Cascades

There are TONS of hikes in the North Cascades! Many of the more popular ones were closed due to the forest fire activity on our visit. These are some of the day hikes we did on our visit.

Before you hike in the North Cascades keep in mind the elevation gain. This area makes you work for those views, and many trails are steep and challenging.

Blue Lake

Blue Lake is a must-see destination, known for its crystal-clear waters surrounded by towering peaks. The trailhead is located off Highway 20, about 30 minutes west of Washington Pass. The hike to Blue Lake is relatively moderate, making it accessible for most visitors. The trail is 4.6 miles round trip and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the lake itself.

Don't miss Tarn Loop. It has the best views of Blue Lake from above. Head left on the upper trail {counter clockwise} The color of the water is more pronounced from above. If you continue around the Tarn Loop, there is a small pond at the top that provides a beautiful reflection. 

You do need an American the Beautiful National Parks pass or you can pay $5 at the trailhead for a WA state forest pass for the day.

Lookout Peak Lookout

Lookout Peak Lookout offers some of the best panoramic views in the North Cascades. The hike is a bit more challenging, with a steep ascent, but the reward at the top is well worth the effort. The lookout tower, perched atop the peak, provides a 360-degree view of the surrounding wilderness. It's a total of 2.6 miles roundtrip and about 1100 feet of elevation gain, but the highest point is 5518 feet so the views are worth it!

Fire lookout hikes in Washington are becoming some of my favorite hikes and the fact that we had this one to ourselves at sunset didn't hurt! No pass is needed. The forest service road is in good condition and there is currently a sign that says "road closed", but if you drive up closer, another sign says the road is closed from 5 am-5 pm, making it a great place to take in the sunset.

There was no access into the fire lookout, but you could stand at the top and enjoy the view.

Goat Peak Lookout

Goat Peak Lookout is another popular destination for those seeking spectacular views. The trail is relatively short but steep, leading to a historic fire lookout. From the top, you can see the Methow Valley, Mount Gardner, and even Mount Rainier on a clear day. 

This fire lookout is actually the second highest staffed lookout in the state at 7000 feet! There was staff on site and she was busy monitoring the fires from the tower. She did find a lull and invited us up to see the view from the top. If there is a string across the stairs, try not to disturb the rangers doing their job.

The hike itself is 3.7 miles roundtrip with about 1400 feet of elevation gain making it a pretty steep hike up. It can be tough on the knees on the way down. I don't hike with poles, but if I did, this would be one I'd recommend them on. 

Don't miss the bench on the underside of the fire lookout. It's got the best seat in the house! 

Be prepared for a LONG forest road to get to this one. 

Fall Creek Falls

Fall Creek Falls is a beautiful series of waterfalls located in the heart of the North Cascades. The hike to the falls is relatively easy, making it perfect for families and those looking for a shorter trek. The trail winds through what was once probably a lush forest, but has since been charred by a fire that ripped through. 

You can stop at the first falls and wade closer to enjoy the mist and cool water, or head up the hillside to see the second and third set of falls. If you do all three, the hike is still under 1.5 miles roundtrip. 

On a hot day in the summer, I wish I had spent the afternoon here cooling off. We were the only ones at the falls when we visited.

Washington Pass Overlook

Washington Pass Overlook is a must-visit spot for anyone traveling along Highway 20. The overlook provides stunning views of Liberty Bell Mountain and the surrounding peaks. There’s a short {less than half a mile}, accessible trail leading to the viewpoint, making it an easy stop for all visitors.

We tacked this on after we hiked Blue Lake and it provided a different perspective from the hike we had just done.

Diablo Lake Overlook

Diablo Lake Overlook is another iconic viewpoint in the North Cascades. The vibrant turquoise waters of Diablo Lake, created by glacial melt, contrast beautifully with the surrounding evergreen forests and rugged mountains. The overlook is easily accessible from Highway 20 and provides ample photo opportunities.

I had this high on my list knowing we would pass it on the way, but since the wild fire activity closed the road, we weren't sure if we would be able to access it. Thankfully, the road opened up for our drive home and we made a quick stop. 

One thing I wish I had more time for while visiting Diablo Lake is to park at Colonial Creek Campground and taken our paddle boards out. It was such a beautiful calm day on the water. There's a parking lot that provides access to the water and you can easily paddle around. Don't forget your life jackets!

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Visiting During Larch Season

Larch season, typically in October, is a magical time to visit the North Cascades. Larches are deciduous conifers that turn a brilliant gold before shedding their needles for the winter. Some of the best places to see larches in the North Cascades include:

• Blue Lake: The hike to Blue Lake is especially stunning during larch season, with golden larches reflecting in the clear blue waters.
• Maple Pass Loop: This popular loop trail offers expansive views of larch-filled valleys and is a favorite among photographers.
• Cutthroat Pass: Accessible via the Pacific Crest Trail, this area is known for its dense larch forests and panoramic mountain views.

People flock to this area for what is now being called "larch madness".

Nearby Towns: Mazama and Winthrop

If you camp, the whole North Cascades area is a veritable playground! There are {what seemed to me} unlimited campgrounds and plenty of free spots you could set up your tent at. Never take camping advice from me, so do your own research on this!

But when I was looking at where to stay, we were overwhelmed since it seems like there is so much area to cover. Do you stay up towards Marblemount? Or down towards Mazama or Winthrop? What about Twisp? 

We rented a VRBO near Mazama in a small cabin community. It felt like it was centrally located and yet we still drove 30 minutes to an hour for just about every hike we did, so keep that in mind. Rental homes are limited, but so are hotel and resort options. Those often book out quite far! 

Mazama

Mazama is a charming small town located near the eastern entrance of the North Cascades Highway. Known for its outdoor recreation opportunities, Mazama is a great base for exploring the surrounding wilderness. The town offers:

• Outdoor Activities: From hiking and biking in the summer to cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in the winter, Mazama has it all.
• Mazama Store: A local favorite, the Mazama Store offers delicious baked goods, groceries, and outdoor gear. They have great baked goods {don't miss the fresh loaves of bread!} so don't miss grabbing breakfast, lunch or a treat. They do sell out, so come early!
• Methow Valley Ciderhouse: Enjoy locally made ciders and a beautiful outdoor seating area with views of the mountains.

Winthrop

Winthrop is a historic western-themed town that offers a unique blend of history and outdoor adventure. Located just a short drive from Mazama, Winthrop is worth a visit for:

• Downtown Winthrop: Stroll through the charming downtown area, which features wooden boardwalks, historic buildings, and a variety of shops and restaurants.
• Shafer Museum: Learn about the history of the Methow Valley and the early settlers who called this area home.
• Outdoor Recreation: Like Mazama, Winthrop offers year-round outdoor activities, including hiking, mountain biking, and skiing. You can also find easy access to the river if you want to cool off on a hot day.

Why is North Cascades National Park the Least Visited?

After spending four days in the North Cascades, I have a theory. There is so much to do around the area, that you likely won't even end up going through the gates of the National Park. We didn't! If you think about it, Great Smoky Mountain National Park is the most visited. Why? Because the highway goes directly through it! Not to mention, it's the only park without a fee! There are plenty of hikes and viewpoints in and around the North Cascades, that you don't have to enter into the National Park to experience it.

Guide to Great Smoky Mountain National Park

Did the North Cascades Feel Crowded?

This is a hard one to answer. I was shocked at how few people we saw even on the more popular trails. We often had trails all to ourselves or would pass just one or two other couples. This is rare in other PNW areas that we have visited. 

We did visit over a weekend in mid July, and it being high tourist season I thought for sure it would be more crowded. It wasn't. Could it have been because of the wild fires? Maybe. They did close down the highway for a short time, though it was reopened and then closed again. Since this was only our first visit, I'm not sure if we had an accurate depiction of what the area would normally feel like, but overall, it felt WAY less crowded than the other National Parks we have in our area {Rainier and Olympic}. 

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The North Cascades are a true gem of the Pacific Northwest, offering unparalleled natural beauty and a wide range of outdoor activities. Whether you're visiting for the hiking trails, the stunning viewpoints, or the charming nearby towns, there's something for everyone to enjoy. Remember to plan your visit according to the season, stay informed about forest fire precautions, and take the time to explore the many highlights of this incredible region. Happy adventuring!

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